Every year, people from near and far travel to the San Juan Islands to enjoy the pristine beauty, the numerous recreation opportunities, and the slower pace of life. For beer-focused travelers, the only brewery in the San Juan archipelago is Island Hoppin’ Brewery, located near the village of Eastsound on Orcas Island.
Understandably, Orcas Island enjoys (or endures) the heaviest tourist traffic during the summer months, but autumn is a great time of year to experience all the islands have to offer while enjoying the benefits of the shoulder season. Thanks to the rain shadow effect produced by the Olympic Mountains, the San Juan Islands enjoy an average of 247 days with sunshine per year and about half the rainfall of Seattle, so plan your trip any time of year knowing that the weather is probably going to be better than you expect. See our separate post about Autumn events in the San Juan Islands.
BEER
Island Hoppin’ Brewery
In 2012, three friends brought a dream to life and launched Island Hoppin’ Brewery. Using a five-barrel brewhouse, and fermenters of various sizes, this brewery consistently pumps out beers that are tasty and true to style, but also excels at brewing creative, imaginative beers. Be sure to try something seasonal like the Blackberry Saison, or order up an Elwha Rock IPA if you’re looking for something a bit more straight forward. All of the beers are available in sampler sizes, pints, and growlers.
The tasting room at the brewery offers three different seating options, depending on the weather. The indoor space is a cozy bar, with five barstools and a few tables. The outdoor space offers picnic tables in a garage space that spills out onto the patio. Well-behaved dogs and children are welcome. Other than peanuts and pretzels, do not expect to find any food, but you are welcome to bring it with you.
Also worth noting is the collection of vinyl albums. They don’t always spin vinyl, but if you ask nicely they might let you act as the DJ. 33 Hope Ln, Eastsound, WA 98245; www.islandhoppinbrewery.com; (360) 376-6079.
The Orcas Village Store
Located at the ferry landing, this charming little general store has pretty much everything you’d need for a successful visit to the island, with plenty of groceries, a deli, assorted camping and cabin equipment, and a great selection of craft beer in bottles and cans. 10 Killebrew Lake Rd, Orcas, WA 98280; www.orcasvillagestore.net; (360) 376-8860.
Rosario
At Rosario Resort and Spa, located about ten minutes from Eastsound, The Moran Lounge offers a modest but exceedingly well-curated selection of rotating taps; the only constant seems to be La Fin Du Monde. The other taps focus on regional selections. The lounge and restaurant are part of the Rosario mansion and museum.
Also at Rosario, but not in the mansion, the Cascade Bay Grill and Store is located at the marina and offers a large outdoor seating area. This combination restaurant, bar, and general store has five craft beers on tap and offers them by the pint and by the growler. Rosario Resort and Spa; www.rosarioresort.com; (360) 376-2222.
Other Beer Options
Doe Bay Café – Located at the Doe Bay Resort about 20 minutes from East Sound, the Doe Bay Café offers farm-fresh food, a nice selection of draft beer, and a large, comfortable deck overlooking the bay. There are also a variety of lodging options at the resort: a bed in the hostel will cost you $35 per night, a campsite will cost you between $35 and $60 per night, and you can spend up to $700 per night for a cabin. 107 Doe Bay Rd, Olga, WA 98279; www.doebay.com; (360) 376-2291.
The Madrona Bar and Grill – This full-service restaurant offers craft beers on tap along with outstanding bayside seating. 310 Main St #105, Eastsound, WA 98245; www.madronabarandgrill.com; (360) 376-7171.
The Lower Tavern – This is where the locals go to eat reasonably priced meals, accompanied by a serviceable selection of beers. Food or beer, expect nothing outstanding, but you’ll find something to satisfy every palate. 46 Prune Alley, Eastsound, WA 98245; www.lowertavern.com; (360) 376-4848.
EAT
The Hogstones Wood Oven – Only two beers on tap, but rest assured, they’ll be good ones. Best of all, the food is outstanding, focused on “Northwest agrarian style cuisine,” which is much better way of saying farm to table. Expect to find pizzas and plates made using seasonally fresh ingredients. If available, be sure to try the Oysters from 344 Yards Away. 460 Main Street, Eastsound, WA; (360) 376-4647.
The Mansion Restaurant and Moran Lounge – The recently rebuilt kitchen and restaurant are creating a new standard. Do not let any preconceptions deter you from enjoying the amazing food pumped out by Executive Chef Dan Koommoo, who oversaw the entire kitchen remodel. The menu focuses largely on seafood and steaks, not to mention plenty of salads, cheeses, and charcuterie as well. Rosario Resort and Spa; (360) 376-2222.
Madona Bar and Grill – A nice selection of draft beer accompanies burgers, sandwiches, seafood and steaks. The lunch menu is understandably heavy on burgers and sandwiches and the dinner menu offers more entrées. 310 Main Street, Ste 105, Eastsound, WA 98245; 360) 376-7171.
STAY
There are a number of lodging options on the island. Virtually every type of lodging experience awaits you from camping to pampered luxury, hotels to rental homes, and everything in between. We opted to stay at Rosario Resort and Spa, which is located about 10 minutes from the village of Eastsound, near Moran State Park.
Even if you do not stay at Rosario Resort and Spa, no visit to Orcas Island would be complete without a visit to Rosario and the Moran Mansion. Today the mansion is used as a museum and is home to the Mansion Restaurant and the Moran Lounge, which we mentioned above.
DIVERSIONS
The Museum at Rosario – The historic Moran Mansion is now a museum featuring, among other things, rooms restored to their original state and walls adorned with amazing photographs from the early 20th Century. Also, learn more about Robert Moran, the man for whom the mansion and the nearby state park were named. His was an interesting life. Consider planning your visit to include the daily concert (Monday thru Saturday at 4:00) in the Music Room, which features a beautiful pipe organ.
Mount Constitution – Follow the signs from Moran State park and drive to the summit of Mount Constitution to enjoy a top-of-the-world view of the San Juan Islands. Climb the observation tower for the best view.
Hike in Moran State Park – There are a number of different hikes in the park. Some are little more than a stroll in the woods or around a lake, others are more challenging, like the trail to the top of Mount Constitution.
Stroll the Village – Remember that in the islands the locals refer to the town as the village. So stroll the village and explore shops, boutiques and galleries.
Hit the Beach – There are a few public beaches on Orcas Island, but the one preferred by islanders is at Obstruction Pass State Park. From the parking lot, hike a half mile to the campsites and access one mile of public beach.